Atacama – cel mai uscat loc de pe Pământ

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Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

Întins de-a lungul a aproape 1.000 km între graniţa peruană de sud şi nordul Republicii Chile, deşertul Atacama se înalţă de la o cîmpie litorală îngustă pînă în pampas - cîmpii practic lipsite de viaţă ce coboară în văile rîurilor, umplute cu sedimente minerale aduse din Anzi. Pampasul se înalţă pînă la nivelul altiplano-ului, platoul de la poalele Anzilor, acolo unde lacurile de sare lasă loc vulcanilor semeţi, cu vîrfuri înzăpezite atingînd 6100 m înălţime, care se înlănţuie în lungul cumpenei de apă continentale.

În centrul său, într-un loc pe care climatologii îl numesc "deşertul absolut", Atacama este cunoscut drept cel mai arid loc de pe Terra. Există vaste zone sterile, înspăimîntătoare, în care nu a plouat niciodată, cel puţin nu de cînd oamenii se ocupă cu înregistrarea precipitaţiilor. N-ai să vezi acolo nici un fir de iarbă sau vreun trunchi de cactus, nici o şopîrlă, nici un ţînţar. Însă vei vedea rămăşiţele a tot ceea ce a existat cîndva. Deşertul poate fi un ucigaş nemilos, însă este, în acelaşi timp, un conservator perfect. Fără umiditate, nimic nu putrezeşte. Totul se transformă în artefact. Chiar şi copii mici.

Capra zăpezilor – un alpinist încercat
Capra zăpezilor – un alpinist încercat

Astfel că e şocant să afli că în prezent trăiesc în Atacama peste un milion de oameni. Ei se înghesuie în oraşele de coastă, în aşezările miniere, în satele de pescari şi în orăşele-oază. Din observatoarele situate pe înălţimile lanţului muntos de coastă Atacama, echipe internaţionale de astronomi cercetează cosmosul, profitînd de cerul mereu perfect senin. În nordul îndepărtat, fermieri încăpăţînaţi cultivă măsline, roşii şi castraveţi, folosind aspersoare care exploatează modestele resurse ale straturilor acvifere. În zona altiplano, urmaşii indigenilor precolumbieni (cei mai mulţi, indieni aymara şi atacama) cresc turme de lame şi alpaca şi-şi irigă culturile cu apă provenită din topirea zăpezilor.

În ultimul timp, Atacama a devenit o productivă atracţie ecoturistică pentru europeni şi pentru elita dornică de aventură din Santiago. În cele trei mari oraşe de coastă din Atacama - Arica, Iquique şi Antofagasta - există centre comerciale moderne, cu piste de bowling şi cinematografe. O bogăţie ostentativă se etalează în fiecare vară pe plajele din Arica, o dată cu năvala de turişti din Bolivia, ţară fără ieşire la mare. Mulţi sosesc purtînd cu ei crose de golf, în intenţia de a juca pe unul din cele trei terenuri din Atacama. Constructorii acestora au realizat pistele direct în nisip: nu există nici un pic de iarbă; din loc în loc, pete de vopsea albastră aplicate pe stînci indică "ochiurile de apă."

Între timp, companii concurente de gaz natural furnizează energie minelor de cupru şi oraşelor în plină dezvoltare din Atacama. Conductele transportă apa potabilă din Anzi pînă pe coastă. O nouă autostradă, Paso de Jama, trece acum peste munţi, legînd Bolivia, Paraguayul, Argentina şi Uruguayul de porturile din deşert prin care cuprul şi alte minerale sînt exportate pe o piaţă asiatică în plină dezvoltare.

Marea de dune Maranhao — apa în deşert (+Foto)
Marea de dune Maranhao — apa în deşert (+Foto)

O asemenea dezvoltare necontrolată - expansiunea urbană, modernizarea, apariţia unor noi industrii şi înflorirea turismului - ar putea să aibă efecte negative de lungă durată pentru un loc pe care mulţi îl consideră că poate rezista la infinit? Va putea deşertul să preia toate aceste influenţe umane fără a fi afectat? Pentru a afla răspunsul, am străbătut Atacama în lung şi-n lat, timp de patru săptămîni, împreună cu Sergio Ballivian, ghidul şi translatorul meu, un aventurier bolivian îndrăgostit de asprimea Atacamei. Într-un autoturism de teren, am parcurs deşertul de la nord la sud, de la Arica la Vallenar, de la talazurile zgomotoase ale oceanului la liniştea pampasului, prin aerul rarefiat al Anzilor, prin peisaje de science-fiction. Am vrut să aflu cum rezistă viaţa, cum de chiar înfloreşte unde n-ar trebui s-o facă.

Călătoria noastră începe atunci cînd ieşim spre sud din Arica pe şoseaua nr. 5, parte a autostrăzii panamericane care împarte în două deşertul chilian. Este un drum al fantomelor, presărat cu caroseriile avariate ale maşinilor, avînd pe marginile sale altare împodobite cu flori de plastic şi cruci, în memoria victimelor accidentelor. Nu există sate aici, nici ranch-uri, nu există garduri: doar cîteva popasuri mizere, numite posadas, nişte adunături de cocioabe cu acoperişuri plate. Doar munţii - care-şi arată venele şi tendoanele de parcă ar fi fost jupuiţi - sparg această stranie monotonie a peisajului.

Oamenii au început să populeze această regiune cu mai bine de 10.000 de ani în urmă, atunci cînd climatul Atacamei era mai temperat. Arheologilor le sînt cunoscute de mult civilizaţiile de coastă ale deşertului, asemenea celei Chinchorro, iar recent ei au găsit dovezi de aşezări umane în unele dintre cele mai uscate peşteri şi văi din Atacama. Astăzi, în aceste locuri viaţa n-ar fi posibilă: o imensă celulă permanentă de presiune ridicată de deasupra Oceanului Pacific ţine la distanţă fronturile atmosferice dinspre vest, iar spre est, culmea andină reprezintă un baraj pentru norii formaţi deasupra bazinului Amazonului. De-a lungul coastei, curentul rece Humboldt vine dinspre Antarctica şi răceşte atmosfera deşertului, dînd naştere unei inversiuni de temperatură care împiedică şi mai mult formarea norilor de ploaie.

Pădurea bioluminescentă (+Video)
Pădurea bioluminescentă (+Video)

Climatul arid a favorizat însă prima epocă de dezvoltare industrială a deşertului. Pe la 1830, prospectorii au găsit depozite de suprafaţă de caliche, un azotat primar (salpetru de Chile) format de-a lungul a milioane de ani. În absenţa vegetaţiei care să-l asimileze sau a precipitaţiilor care să-l spele, "aurul alb" a format o crustă pe o mare parte din suprafaţa deşertului. Azotaţii au fost puternic solicitaţi pe pieţele europene pentru fabricarea explozibililor şi a îngrăşămintelor. Companiile miniere britanice şi din alte ţări europene au sosit cu experienţa lor şi pînă prin 1895 exportul azotaţilor în Europa a înflorit, asigurînd în Chile peste jumătate din venit.

Curînd, mii de muncitori au început să migreze spre cele peste 100 de oficinas salitreras (puncte de extracţie şi procesare a salpetrului) din Atacama, construite în cele mai aride şi neprimitoare zone ale deşertului. Muncitorii din epoca salpetrului erau un amestec de imigranţi, ţărani necalificaţi şi şomeri din suprapopulatele oraşe chiliene. "Unul dintre străbunicii mei a venit din Liverpool. Ceilalţi străbunici erau germani elveţieni - mi-a spus Patricio Fischer. Imigranţii din Atacama erau în majoritate tineri, doritori să rupă total legăturile cu ţările lor natale."

În cea de-a doua jumătate a secolului al XIX-lea, ambiţioşii şi imperturbabilii ingineri de mine englezi au pus bazele unor întreprinderi în deşert, inoculînd managerilor locali acea cultură a ceasurilor de pontaj, a terenurilor de tenis şi a costumelor de duminică. Lucrătorii ordinari nu erau la fel de bine trataţi: şefii păstrau controlul aproape absolut asupra muncitorilor, care erau adesea plătiţi în cupoane valabile doar la magazinele companiei. Curînd, industria salpetrului s-a transformat într-un teren fertil pentru noile concepte ale luptei de clasă şi ale sindicalismului. Cînd, pe la 1930, această ramură a dat faliment, mii de oameni rămaşi fără lucru s-au îndreptat spre sud, către oraşe, cu mînie în suflete şi cu ideologie comunistă în minţi. După cîţiva ani, mulţi dintre comuniştii chilieni aveau să fie trimişi înapoi în deşert, la moarte.

Marea de dune (+Foto)
Marea de dune (+Foto)

În 1970, această naţiune avea să devină prima din lume care a ales liber un conducător marxist: Salvador Allende. El a încercat să-i ajute pe săraci redistribuind terenurile arabile între fermieri şi naţionalizînd industriile-cheie. Însă eforturile sale au dus la declanşarea unor greve la scară naţională, conduse de comunitatea oamenilor de afaceri şi a chilienilor bogaţi. În toiul unei serioase crize alimentare, Augusto Pinochet, un general autoritar de dreapta, l-a înlăturat pe Allende, printr-o lovitură de stat militară, la 11 septembrie 1973. Militarii lui Pinochet s-au răzbunat pe susţinătorii lui Allende în cele mai diverse moduri, aruncînd în închisori, exilînd sau executînd zeci de mii dintre ei.

Mulţi dintre cei exilaţi şi-au găsit sfîrşitul în localităţi izolate, uitate de lume, cum ar fi Pisagua, unul din fostele porturi din Atacama prin care se exportau azotaţi. Pînă la mijlocul anilor '70, Pisagua a fost un lagăr de concentrare neîncăpător; afluxul de bărbaţi a fost distribuit în ruinele unei fabrici de procesare a peştelui, iar femeile în anticamerele unui fost teatru britanic.

Teatrul mai există şi astăzi. La puţin timp după ce am ajuns în orăşel, m-am oprit aici pentru a o întreba pe istoricul Catherine Saldana Suárez, o femeie inteligentă şi erudită, despre trecutul clădirii. Mi-a spus că încăperile au fost redecorate, iar inscripţiile de pe pereţi - şterse. "Mentalitatea chilienilor este aceea de a repara lucrurile. Nu vrem să ne amintim cît de rău a fost." Însă ochii ei, strălucirea lor întunecată o trădează: "Mă gîndesc mult şi sînt cîteva lucruri pe care nu le pot uita" - spune ea.

14 peisaje extraterestre de pe Pământ (Foto)
14 peisaje extraterestre de pe Pământ (Foto)

Pinochet a abandonat puterea în 1990. Una dintre închisorile sale de aici este acum un hotel, iar blocurile sale cenuşii sînt vopsite în roşu şi albastru. Pe docul oraşului îl întîlnesc pe Oscar Romero Gallo, un pescar corpolent, cu o coamă de păr negru care-i încadrează ochelarii cu rame metalice. Tocmai a publicat o carte despre istoricul oraşului Pisagua şi-mi spune că, după lovitura de stat, oamenii care soseau aici dispăreau pur şi simplu. "Am senzaţia că mulţi dintre ei au fost ucişi şi aruncaţi în mare - spune Romero nesigur. Cîţi? Nu ştiu şi nici n-o să ştiu vreodată."

În cimitirul din Pisagua, de pe malul mării, unde vuietul talazurilor pare că acoperă ţipetele victimelor, o groapă deschisă simbolic şi un monument de bronz comemorează 19 oameni găsiţi aici, asasinaţi de trupele lui Pinochet.

De la Pisagua, drumul se reîntoarce la singurătatea perpetuă a pampasului brăzdat de adîncile "arroyos". În timpul sezonului de vîrf al topirii zăpezilor, apa din unele din aceste chei reuşeşte să atingă oceanul. Urmăm un pîrîu anemic spre coastă, acolo unde colibele din panel vopsit în culori pastel ale satului de pescari Caleta Camarones se prăjesc la soare, amintind de o scenă dintr-un film western.

Din anii '70, doar 18 familii au locuit în Caleta Camarones. Pentru cultivarea plantelor, acestea folosesc apa sărată a rîurilor, care devine sălcie după ce spală mineralele de la suprafaţa deşertului. Terenurile din jur sînt acoperite cu vechi plase pescăreşti, bărci stricate şi caroseriile maşinilor care şi-au dat duhul pe drumurile pline de şleauri sau prin furtunile de nisip. Micile bărci de pescuit ale comunităţii sînt ancorate în dreptul unei plaje stîncoase, la cinci minute de mers pe jos de sat. Manuel Ardiles, un pescar roşu la faţă şi cu mîini mari, tăbăcite, nu se arată foarte optimist în ceea ce priveşte viitorul aici. "Aş vrea să-mi vînd barca, pentru că nu se mai pot scoate bani din pescuit - îmi mărturiseşte el. Vrem să demarăm o afacere de acvacultură, să creştem urechi de mare."

Pescuitul, care a asigurat cea de-a doua înflorire economică a Atacamei, a început la 20 de ani după ce exploatarea azotaţilor falimentase. Peştele a fost întotdeauna prezent din abundenţă în lungul coastelor chiliene datorită curentului Humboldt, care vine dinspre Antarctica şi antrenează nutrienţi spre suprafaţă, unde lumina soarelui declanşează o puternică dezvoltare a planctonului ce hrăneşte peştii. Astfel, între 1950 şi 1980 mii de şomeri din industria azotaţilor şi-au găsit de lucru pe mare.

Drumul de la Calama la San Pedro de Atacama, centru turistic din nordul Chile, urcă prin ceaţa deşertului, pe lîngă vulcani cu vîrfuri acoperite de zăpadă, suspendaţi parcă în spatele dealurilor asemenea unei cortine de scenă. Această regiune de deşert pietros este locul în care "Nomadul", vehiculul de teren semiautonom proiectat de cercetătorii americani pentru a merge pe Marte, a fost testat în 1997 pentru viitoarea sa misiune. {i, chiar în primăvara trecută, cercetători de la Universitatea Carnegie Mellon, de la University of Tennessee, din Chile şi de la NASA au vizitat Salar Grande - o regiune din Atacama cu relieful asemănător celui de pe Planeta Roşie - pentru a demara construirea unui robot care va putea căuta urme de viaţă în alte locuri din sistemul nostru solar.

Aspectul extraterestru al Atacamei atrage un număr din ce în ce mai mare de turişti, europeni în timpul verii chiliene, orăşeni din Santiago în timpul iernii. Traversăm bazinul uscat cunoscut sub numele de Cîmpia Răbdării, acolo unde deşertul apare ca un puzzle, în culorile pastelate ale gipsului, argilei şi altor minerale, înfăţişînd forme geologice de sare ciudate în Valea Lunii. Ne strecurăm printre turnuri roşietice, semănînd cu nişte spinări de reptile preistorice. Cu certitudine, un peisaj care s-ar potrivi mai bine în altă lume, căruia îi lipsesc trăsăturile topografice şi muchiile rotunjite de eroziune, caracteristice pentru cea mai mare parte a Pămîntului.

La umbra vulcanului Licancábur, San Pedro a devenit un sat-oază, cu case din chirpici şi drumuri de pămînt roşiatic, situat între deşert şi altiplano. Înconjurat de unele dintre cele mai spectaculoase peisaje ale planetei, San Pedro atrage spre prăfuitul său centru 36.000 de vizitatori şi ecoturişti anual.

În majoritatea dimineţilor, în întunericul de dinaintea zorilor, pînă la 30 de microbuze şi jeep-uri hurducăie pe drumurile pline de gropi, trec pe lîngă turmele de vicugnas şi ajung în cîmpul de gheizere Tatío, aflat la 4.300 m altitudine. Acesta este momentul pentru a vedea spectacolul unei duzini de gheizere erupînd simultan. Alte grupuri se îndreaptă spre sud, pentru a privi păsările flamingo din bazinele sărate sau se adună pe o dună de nisip, aşteptînd spectacolul de foc al soarelui care apune în Valea Lunii.

Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

Атакама - самая сухая пустыня в мире

 

Sursa: natgeo.ro

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