Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

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Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

Stella şi Paul McCartney sunt activiştii în protecţia drepturilor animalelor. Lumea modei este crudă şi acest adevăr poate surprinde pe oricine cu greu. Cruzimea ei se răspîndeşte asupra creaturilor tinere fragile, care sunt nevoite să se aducă la anorexie, precum şi asupra animalelor lipsite de apărare, ucise pentru a satisface capriciile unor „leoaice mondene” şi însoţitorilor lor. Nimic nu este de făcut: aşa sunt regulile jocului. Cu toate acestea, designerul bine-cunoscut, Stella McCartney, are cu totul altă părere: în colecţiile ei, este imposibil de a găsi orice blană sau produs din piele. Stella promovează şi susţine respectul pentru mediul înconjurător. În pofida acestui fapt, publicul, obişnuit cu lux, o aplaudă în picioare, iar brandul care îndeplineşte toate standardele ecologice, are un succes imens.

Cînd Stella a fost doar la începutul calei de cucerire a Olimpului de modă, nimeni nu a luat-o în serios. S-ar părea că fiica legendarului "Beatles", Paul McCartney, nu ar trebui să aibă nici un fel de dificultăţi, iar în faţa purtătoarei unui nume atît de celebru toate uşile sunt deschise. Dar realitatea a fost destul de diferită. Stela a trebuit să înfrunte atitudinea crudă, care predomină în coridoarele lumii glamourului şi ştie din prima mînă cum se luptă pentru un loc sub soare.

 

Transformarea unei fete tinere într-o creatoare de modă

 

La începutul carierei sale, cînd Stella a reuşit să-l înlocuiască pe Karl Lagerfeld, ea a fost în frunte Casei de modă Chloe din Paris, publicul, fără a-şi ascunde dispreţul, a vorbit deschis despre lipsa de talent. Chiar Lagerfeld însuşi, care a sperat că postul său va fi ocupat de un designer deja cunoscut, a fost foarte dezamăgit cu o astfel de succesoare neexperimentată. Dar oare Stella a fost atît de neînzestrată de talent şi de neexperimentată?

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

 

Înainte de a deveni director de creaţie al brandului Chloe, ea a trebuit să depăşească o cale obişnuită de un novice simplu, care visează să devină un celebru designer de modă. De la şaisprezece ani ea a lucrat ca ucenic la Christian Lacroix, ceea ce înseamnă că fiica unui star mondial a trebuit, în rînd cu toată lumea, timp de cîteva ore, să croiască şi să coase acelaşi haine în aşteptarea momentului stelar bine-meritat. Ea chiar a lucrat la croitorul tatălui său, în scopul de a-şi îmbunătăţi abilităţile de design.

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

 Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

 

În 1995 Stella a absolvit Colegiul de Arte şi Design. Sf. Martin, care este una din instituţiile de învăţămînt cele mai vechi şi mai prestigioase în lumea de design. Colecţia, prezentată de ea pentru susţinerea tezei de design, a atras atenţia mai multor ziare britanice, precum şi brandurilor, cum ar fi Bergdorf Goodman, Joseph şi Neiman Marcus, iar apoi a fost vîndută în magazinele din Londra şi Tokyo.

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

 Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

 

Orice s-ar fi spus, dar "Stella de oţel” a avut toate abilităţile pentru a substitui demn pe "Charles de fer". Drept dovadă serveşte succesul comercial al primei şi următoarelor colecţii, lansate sub marca Chloe, precum şi recunoaşterea celor mai severi critici. La începutul celui de-al treilea mileniu, talentul ei, în cele din urmă, a fost recunoscut şi ea a primit titlul de "Designerul Anului".

 

Recunoaştere

 

Deja în 2001, Stella a lansat propria linie de haine, iar în 2007 o linie de îngrijire a pielii (toate produsele cosmetice sunt realizate exclusiv din ingrediente organice) Astăzi fiica lui Paul McCartney nu este doar un designer cu renume mondială: ea înseşi dictează regulile de modă mondială. Şi moda internaţională trebuie să le recunoască.

În 2001 a fost prezentat un brand independent sub marca Stella McCartney.

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

Adidaşi din hîrtie la modă
Adidaşi din hîrtie la modă

 

Printre regulile de bază pot fi menţionate respectul pentru natură, lipsa blănii şi pielii animalelor, precum şi conformitatea cu toate principiile de comerţ echitabil. Bineînţeles, iniţiativele ei ar fi rămas nedescoperite, fără prea înaltul nivel de vînzări al hainelor sub marca Stella McCartney: fete de succes cu o carieră împlinită au apreciat la justa valoare hainele elegante şi în acelaşi timp practice ale Stellei.

Chiar şi femeile obişnuite cu blănuri şi piele naturală, cumpără cu plăcere pantofii cu designul ei, de multe ori neobservînd că aceştia sunt făcuţi din materiale sintetice de înaltă calitate! Iată ce spune Stella la acest subiect: "Astăzi, designerii au o mulţime de oportunităţi să creeze blană sau piele „naturale”, şi acest fapt a devenit o tradiţie. Unii clienţi cumpără genţi şi încălţăminte, chiar neobservînd că articolele sunt realizate din materiale artificiale. A nu purta lucruri din blană nu înseamnă a se limita la ceva. Datorită înaltelor tehnologii, designerii populari au depăşit demult acest stereotip".

Succesul ei a impus mulţi designeri să se gîndească că nu este necesar de a încuraja tratamentul violent faţă de animale, pentru ca marca să fie solicitată. Astăzi, tot mai des pe podiumuri pot fi văzute colecţii, în care pielea şi blana sunt înlocuite cu materiale artificiale.

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

 Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

Modestia – noua modă pentru femeile moderne
Modestia – noua modă pentru femeile moderne

 

De exemplu, la ultima Săptămînă a Modei din Paris, casa de modă Chanel a prezentat articole realizate în întregime din blană sintetică. D & G demonstrează periodic îmbrăcăminte şi încălţăminte pentru vegani, şi Fendi a creat eco-brandul Carmina Campus. Această listă poate fi continuată. Este evident că vegan fashion devine o tradiţie reală la ziua de astăzi, relevanţa căreia se intensifică cu fiecare sezon.

Pentru meritele sale vegana din lumea modei a fost distinsă de Consiliul american pentru protecţia resurselor naturale (NRDC) şi, desigur,de Organizaţia pentru apărarea drepturilor animalelor (PETA). După spusele preşedintelui NRDC, Stella McCartney este un exemplu viu al apărătorului naturii şi laolată liderului industriei de modă.

 

Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura 

 Stella McCartney: moda distinsă creată cu grijă pentru natura

 

„Eu nu încerc să cuceresc lumea, vreau doar să demonstrez că accesoriile pot fi realizate din materiale corecte, din punct de vedere etic, şi totodată să fie sexy şi cool. Nu cred că din partea consumatorului ar fi ciudat să cumpere un clutch simpatic din piele artificială. Spre regret, nu există încă 20 de case de modă, care ar face lucruri din piele artificială", - spune Stella, şi nouă nu ne rămîne decît să fim de acord cu ea.

 

 Autor: Diane Kern  

 

 

Sursa: facepla.net

 

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